Day two of our one hundred mile West Highland Way hike was walking the 12 miles or 20 kms from Drymen to Sallochy Bay. So slightly further than our first day, which was 10 miles or 16 kms from Milngavie to Drymen. My research said that only pre-booked campers are allowed on the Sallochy Bay campsite. I had therefore pre-booked a tent pitch (two tents allowed per pitch and max four people) for us on the banks of Loch Lomond.
Morning in Drymen Campsite
Our first night on the West Highland Way was rainy. My tent proved itself well as it kept me nicely dry and perfectly warm. I woke up at around 8am. My co-hiker Jane was still snuggled in her tent, so I left her alone. The air was cool and crisp. The mist was rising over the hills and fields below the Drymen campsite.
I took in the amazing morning view. I considered doing a few salutes to the sun asanas but decided against without my yoga mat and with the wet grass. Spoilt, I know. Instead, I had a hot shower, ate a cereal breakfast bar and an apple and plugged my phone into one of the free communal charging points – very handy!
Jane emerged around 9am, long after most of the other campers had packed up. We were pretty much the last ones on the campsite. All others had already eagerly set out to explore the iconic West Highland Way. We did not know it then, but this was to become our morning routine, setting off last for the day. We did not mind though; it was our holidays after all and we were not racing anyone. Jane, who is much more outdoorsy than me, had a gas burner in her backpack. She prepared some hot tea for both of us and a hot breakfast for herself. I knew then that I chose my hiking companion well!
Leaving Drymen Behind
We didn’t set off from Drymen until noon. It started raining after we packed our tents and bags and by the time we finished our second teas, it was absolutely pouring down. It would’ve been miserable on the trail. We waited it out in the communal sheltered area and took off from the now completely deserted camp when the rain eased.
It was only slightly drizzling as we walked to Drymen village, cca 20 minutes. Once we stocked up on groceries for the next day in the local shop, we rejoined the trail up a laneway above the village. As we left behind the quaint village of Drymen with its charming stone cottages, our spirits were high and we were looking forward to today’s trek.
Hiking from Drymen to Balmaha
The weather improved as we walked. The air remained crisp but it stopped raining. My guidebook gave us a choice of two routes: a longer one with scenic views or an easier route along a road through Milton of Buchanan. Since we were so late setting off, this is what we did. The landscape was still very pretty with gently rolling hills, even if we missed the Garadhban Forest with its legendary scent of pine trees.
I had also hoped that we would make a short detour to see Buchanan Castle, the seat of Clan Graham. The impressive ruins are only about one and a half kilometres from Drymen. But because the rain delayed us, we agreed to carry on the West Highland Way. We knew we had a pre-booked tent pitch and needed to reach Sallochy Bay Campsite by the evening before the camp wardens finish for the day. Maybe I’ll get to see it the next time.
The well-marked West Highland Way trail led us to the very pretty Balmaha with its many boats bobbing in the sparkling water. By the time we arrived in the village, the sun was shining and the walking was easy. There was a lovely hotel, The Oak Tree Inn, serving food, so we stopped here for a delicious lunch. We sat at the outside tables overlooking Loch Lomond, one of Scotland’s most famous and expansive bodies of water. It looked beautiful in the afternoon sun.
Hiking From Balmaha To Sallochy Bay
The gorgeous weather lasted for the rest of the day until we reached Sallochy Bay. Once we left the quaint village of Balmaha behind, Loch Lomond became our constant companion on this leg of the journey. The loch-side trail meandered through lush greenery and soon we fell in love with the serene beauty of the lake. Its vast expanse of water stretched out before us. It reflected the clear blue sky above and the water gentle lapped against the rocks along the shoreline. The sight filled us with appreciation for the natural splendour of Scotland.
After we walked along the lake in ancient woodlands for the rest of the afternoon, past several camping grounds, Sallochy campsite emerged in front of us. It nestled among the trees like a welcoming refuge for weary travellers, which we were! We checked in and were allocated our pitch number. I was so very happy that I picked this camp. With no showers it is of a rustic charm, but the setting could not be prettier.
We set up camp right by the lake which was spectacular as the sun started to go down. As the night fell, the stars painted the sky with their glow. The absence of city lights allowed the constellations to shine in all their brilliance. Sitting outside our tents, Jane and I reflected on the day’s journey – the solitude of the woods, the dancing waters of the loch and the simplicity of camping life. Some of the other campers hired a metal firepit with wood and were enjoying a crackling fire in front of their tents. I slightly envied them the fire’s warmth in the cool Highland night. An owl was hooting nearby.
It was all quite perfectly romantic.