Isn’t there something terribly romantic about trains? And old trains in particular? They have been exciting the imagination of kids and dreamers ever since the beginning of the age of steam. From Agatha Christie’s murder on the Orient Express, to Johnny Cash who has got a thing about trains, to Soul Asylum’s runaway train never going back. A proof of the iron horse’s undying charm on Ireland’s West Coast is the unique Lartigue Monorail in Listowel in County Kerry.
It made its maiden journey in 1888. After that, it ran as the world’s first and only commercial passenger carrying monorail. Sadly, it closed after damage in 1924. Eventually, train enthusiasts in the local community lovingly restored and resurrected it in 2003. And if, like Johnny, you also have a thing about trains, you’ll love it. Because, believe it or not, this is one of the most unusual railway tracks not only in Ireland but also in the world.
What Makes The Lartigue Monorail Unique?
It runs on one single track (hence ‘monorail’) whereas a conventional railway line runs on two tracks. As such, it is raised about a metre off the ground. In addition, it has pannier-like carriages on either side. Think of a solitary track held up by A-shaped frames with the train sitting on top of the structure. The train balances on the trestles, with the track fitting into its centre. This system makes the Listowel Lartigue Ireland’s most unique railway.
As much as the arrangement seems a little bonkers at first, there is logic behind it. In a way, it reminds me of horses carrying panniers with provisions for their cowboy owners across distances in the Wild West. Or of donkeys with goods in baskets on each side of their backs in Tunisia. Or of cyclists all over the world with bike bags slung over the rear bike rack. So perhaps a single rail is not that much of a jump, really.
How Did The Monorail Come About?
Its inventor was the French engineer Charles Lartigue. He had built a prototype monorail in Algeria that travelled across the dessert carrying grass. Because the track was raised off the ground, it worked well with the shifting sands. Clearly, a conventional double rail would have failed here. Reportedly, the inspiration came to Lartigue when observing camels carrying heavy twin panniers. See?
Charles Lartigue wanted to prove his idea as a viable railway option. He therefore demonstrated it at the 1886 Colonial And Indian Exhibition (shudder) in London. At the same time, North Kerry was lobbying for a railway between the towns of Listowel and Ballybunion. The two events happened to coincide and the ministers in Westminster decided that Lartigue’s system was going to get a trial run.
The Listowel-Ballybunion railway opened on 1 March 1888. It ran the 16 kms or 10 miles between the two towns – the only railway of its type in the world. It seems to have got good use. Local children took it to and from school and farmers transported produce and livestock. Plus, visitors and holidaymakers travelled on it to the Ballybunion sea resort. Despite its popularity, however, it was never profitable.
During the civil war 1921-23, British soldiers often used it to travel, which did not go down well with the Irish population There was a lot of friction in the country at that time. Perhaps no surprise then, that the tracks and the train were badly damaged. So much so that the line stopped running in 1924.
The Lartigue Monorail Today
Today, the railway attracts train buffs from all over the world. You can easily spend two or three hours here walking around, admiring and photographing the Lartigue’s beautiful detail. It is wholly extraordinary when you know that there is nothing like it elsewhere in the world.
How Far Does The Restored Lartigue Monorail Go?
Today, the monorail doesn’t travel too far, only about 1,000 metres (0.6 miles). Nevertheless, it gives a feel of a life in times long gone.
Who Runs The Lartigue Monorail?
As so much in Irish heritage, culture and arts, it is volunteers who run the Lartigue. The team behind the monorail’s revival and operation are doing a stellar job. The restoration works were financially supported by the Community Activities Fund in Kerry County Council and the Department of Rural and Community Development.
Where Is The Lartigue Monorail?
You can find it on John B Keane Road in Listowel – a pretty historic town in North Kerry. Today’s Lartigue journey starts very close to where the original rail journey commenced. You can walk over to the original Listowel Lartigue Terminal in the park adjacent to the current site. The foundations of the original engine house are preserved as well as two switch bases.
When Is The Lartigue Monorail Open?
In 2023, the Lartigue Monorail is open 1st May to 1st October, daily 1pm to 4.30pm.
What Else Is There To Do And Is It Suitable For Kids?
Kids will love it! There is the Lartigue Museum that shows a film of the original railway. Also models, displays and memorabilia.
Other things to do in Listowel include popping into the Kerry Writers Museum and Listowel Castle (currently closed but worth seeing the exterior at least). You can walk around the Town Park and take the River Walk. Worth checking out is the lovely St Johns Theatre and Arts Centre in a converted neo-gothic church. The programme includes theatre, film, visual arts, music and film.
If you happen to be there during the first week of June, Listowel Writers’ Week is one of the oldest literary festivals in the country. And further afield, in the North Kerry area is the impressive Crag Cave, as well as the sandy beaches and cliff walks of Ballybunion.
A Thing About Trains..
In the words of Agatha Christie: ‘Trains are wonderful…. To travel by train is to see nature and human beings, towns and churches and rivers, in fact, to see life.’ Would you agree?